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Travel Gravel - The Via Verde Santander-Mediterraneo

For this year's #graveladventure we chose the old Via Verde Santander-Mediterraneo railway cycle path from Santander to Valencia. The length of the railway line, which was never completed, was to be 732 km. Construction started in 1879, but with many technological problems such as numerous tunnels, the line never reached its proposed final destination of Santander. The partially completed railway was decommissioned from 1966 onwards and finally closed in 1995. Now open to cyclists, it made for a perfect end -of-season destination. 

“A true dream day on the gravel bike with a quick 7 hours of riding, which ended late in the evening.”

After our start at the port of Santander, we went straight to the first stage, which was also the “queen stage” of our trip and took us from Santander to Villacayo. It went over the picturesque Cantabrian mountains. A fast 150 kilometers and over 1700 meters gained in altitude were the prelude to our gravel adventure. The highlight was the old Tunnel de Engana, which we had to bypass via a lonely pass road. Here there were many surreal landscapes. From Pedrosa we then continued on the gravel railway bike path through a manmade canyon. A true dream day on the gravel bike with a quick 7 hours of riding, which ended late in the evening.

“High above a raging river, we pushed our bikes over a narrow footbridge”

Our second stage took us from Villacayo to Burgos. After spending the night at the Hotel Dona Jimena, we went straight back to the railway cycle path. Victor, a nice guy from the hotel, had lots of tips ready and planned an alternative route for us at short notice. We had to bypass bridges five times due to construction work. Then, in a sensational gorge stretch, a brief thrill - high above a raging river, we pushed our bikes over a narrow footbridge. In front of Ona, the track led over a grandiose route with fabulous rock formations. Then we went to the Castilian plateau and we had a strong headwind with a constant 1-2 percent incline. We didn't meet anyone for hours and arrived in Burgos after a good 5 hours of riding.

“After 55 kilometers of very coarse gravel we were able to relax again - good job as my hands were starting to hurt”

After we had met our Spanish friend Alberto Luque, the manager of the "Camino del Cid" in Burgos, we started stage 3. In Burgos we rode directly onto the railway cycle path, first a bit asphalted, then gravel through a tunnel. From kilometer 30 then began very coarse gravel. After 55 kilometers, a piece of asphalt reappeared, which allowed us to relax again, good job as my hands were starting to hurt! During the last kilometers before San Leonardo de Yagül, the track led again on a dream route through pine forests.

In San Leonardo de Yagül at the start the next day at over 1.000 meters it was only 10 degrees in the morning. There are still wolves in the woods, which didn't particularly motivate us. Shortly behind the old train station in San Leonardo de Yagül is the spot where parts of the Hollywood film "Dr. Zhiwago" were filmed in 1965. The railway line led through seemingly endless pine forests and were deserted. After a good 60 kilometers of gravel slopes, we arrived in Soria.

“The highlight of today’s ride was a 2000-year-old Roman bridge.”

After seeing the procession in Calatayud the night before, we went shortly after the city on the Via Verde Santander-Mediterraneo. This was followed by a piece of asphalt before returning to the track bike path in front of Daroca. This was unexpectedly navigable from here until shortly after El Poyo del Cid. The highlight was a 2000-year-old Roman bridge. The last part of the almost 90-kilometer stage led to fast tracks next to the railway line to Monreal del Campo.

The section of the route from Monreal de Campo to Teruel with almost 100 kilometers gave us another fantastic gravel day. First, we went up to the windmill at Ojos Negros, then to the old mine Ojos Negros at 1.235 meters. The Via Verde Ojos Negros railway cycle path has now been extended almost to the sea from here, with short interruptions. We rode through a deserted landscape with spectacular rocks and great views. After a short break in Cella we continued to Teruel. The whole scenery was strongly reminiscent of the Southwest of the USA.

On the penultimate day we rode from Teruel to Segorbe on our favorite train cycle route, the VV. Ojos Negros. We crossed a deserted Wild West landscape with rocks, bridges and many tunnels. Of course, again with a headwind and the hot Spanish sun. The landscape is partially charred by the forest fires last summer.

“After almost 900 kilometers - mostly on gravel - we arrived in Valencia.”

Our last stage leads from Segorbe to Valencia with almost 70 kilometers. But before we went to the Tour d'Honneur, we watched the running of the bulls and accidentally went to the arena. At the cafe stop in Pucol we met the owner of the Grand Café, the former Spanish ex-professional cyclist José Ramon Lopez Montoro. After almost 900 kilometers - mostly on gravel - we arrived in Valencia. The tyres were also worn out but held out without a single puncture. Our trip on the VV. Santander-Mediterraneo was without a doubt a great #graveladventure that is probably unique in Europe. Lonely gravel trails, small Spanish villages and a landscape reminiscent of the south of the USA will stay in our memories for a long time.

If you would like to follow Timo & Mandy's route, you can find it here:

Text and images by Timo Rokitta and Mandy Rodriguez

timo rokitta

Every year as his participation in gravel races and events comes gently to an end, Timo Rokitta heads off for an end-of-season #graveladventure. This year he headed to Spain to take on a 900km gravel traverse from Santander to Valencia. 

Timo Rokitta

Timo is an über keen gravel rider based in Germany. He's ridden all over Europe and mixes competing in long distance gravel and bikepacking events, with social gravel rides. He's an event organiser and can be seen riding on either a Moots, an OPEN UP, an Allied Able or a 1970s folding bike converted for gravel use!

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