Look out Tuscany, there’s a lesser-explored network of European white roads vying for attention. Cyprus, the former British colony, separated into the North and South in 1974 and still facing an on-going political tug-of-war, may have what it takes to rival your Strade Bianche, olive oil and fine wines. Emmie Collinge spends five leisurely days at the Bedrock Gravelfest Cyprus on the southern-side of the island.
It’s my second group ride with a bunch of strangers at the Bedrock Gravelfest Cyprus and I’m having a far better time than I could ever have predicted. At Governor’s Beach, we ride over glaring white rocks that are so bright and so white that it’s hard to discern what’s under your tyres. Taking a deep breath, I manoeuvre my hire bike over the rough ground, feeling a familiar rush of will-I-keep-it-upright adrenaline and pleasure. The sea is fiercely blue and bright to the extent that it looks like it has been lifted straight from the pages of a tourist brochure. I don’t think I’ve ever ridden anywhere quite so beautiful. After 10 tough kilometres riding on the low cliff edge, the group is grudgingly jubilant when we hit a stretch of tarmac. Even though the respite for the legs and arms feels great, there’s a unanimous decision to return to ride this section again. And again. And again.
The Bedrock Gravelfest Cyprus, based out of a village called Tochni, is in its second year and still bristles with the energy of a work in progress. And that’s a good thing—its festival approach is still evolving, and organisers Mike Hadjioannou and Eleni Savviduo still have lots of ideas for development up their sleeve. Currently, it runs over seven days, with the option to dip in and out as you choose. Non-riders are welcomed too, seeing additional elements on the programme to keep them busy . Although, busy probably isn’t the right word.
In fact, words are hard when it comes to this experience in particular. I’ve never been a fan of using the word ‘sleepy’ to describe a place. But in the case of Tochni, no other word quite hits the spot. This centuries-old place moves at its own rhythm throughout its maze-like network of tiny alleyways, to the backing tune of loud church bells and even louder bird song. The social life of cafes and church-going – especially this week during Orthodox Easter – is an essential part of the community. And community is a big part of this festival. As festival-attendees, we’re dotted around the village in various accommodations – based on budget or group size – although it feels like most riders, like me, have travelled solo.
The village is already bathed in bright sunshine by the time I wander out from my accommodation at the Eveloes Country House and take my breakfast outdoors at a local café. This part of the day quickly becomes one of my favourites and I find myself falling into an easy, restful routine, which – even days later – I’m finding hard to leave behind.
The festival schedule is unhurried and fairly loose, which gives independence. For me, that’s a crucial part of its appeal. Everyone sorts themselves out for breakfast, depending on their accommodation: if you want to take a walk or a run in the morning, go for it; if you want to take a book to breakfast, feel free. Between 9 and 9.30, we congregate at The Feed Zone café, where Mike has his Activate Cyprus offices and a high-end coffee machine that’s nicely warmed up by this time. (He’ll pour you a gorgeous light roast espresso, which surpasses anything else you’ll find in the village, or maybe even on the island).
Once everyone is caffeinated and the day’s GPX files have been adapted, shared and transferred to everyone’s GPS, it’s time to ride. Mike is the most accommodating festival organiser I’ve come across, meaning there’s no set groups or mandatory routes. I guess it’s the Mediterranean mindset of knowing how to appreciate life. Each rider is asked what they feel like, and Mike comes up with a range of routes, tailored to an individual or a group’s needs.
Over my five days in Tochni, I did three group rides, including two with Mike (someone mad about all types of bikes and equally as keen to explore new potential-looking tracks), one semi-solo ride, where I peeled off from the group and took a hillier route back, and one solo ride that felt somewhat disconcerting after so much good company but allowed me to bag a major climb. My reward at the summit in Lefkara was an exceptional piece of apple tart but I longed for my new friends to share the experience. The descent was a perpetual on-the-brakes dance following a now-disused road. Filled with potholes and at one point fully subsided, it gave a good rush of adrenaline.
The best thing about Cypriot gravel, I was learning from Mike and the rest of the locals, is that access is basically unrestricted – and that a lot of roads under construction simply get forgotten. Spot an appealing-looking yellow track on komoot that handily joins two villages? Take it; the chances that you’ll come across a gate or private land sign are minimal. Feel like going right or left and following your instinct? It’s unlikely that anyone will stop you. Just make sure you keep your eyes peeled for faded brown signs indicating archaeological sites; if Mike isn’t with you, you’re likely to miss these relics, and Cyprus has just as many gems to explore off the bike as you can explore on it.
Even though one third of Cyprus’ roads are dirt, you might be fooled into thinking that all you will want to do is ride here, but Mike and Eleni have put together a programme that immerses you into Cypriot culture without it ever feeling forced or contrite. The off-bike elements became just as much of a highlight as the on-bike stuff. And that threw me, quite frankly. For the first time, I realised why people choose to live more simply. After a few weeks cranking through a massive work project that still required a few hours in front of the laptop each afternoon during the festival – yep, I’m not sorry, either – the quality of life here made me understand why less is certainly more.
There was cycling-specific yoga held twice during the festival, plus workshops on halloumi making, basket weaving, and more. Again, it’s all optional and you can dip in and out. Although having been there, I’d strongly suggest dipping in otherwise severe FOMO could occur.
Dinner – included in the festival package – is served at different restaurants each night, but the quality is consistent, and the menus, which are laden with fresh Greek Cypriot ingredients, are spectacularly generous and endless. Whether you’ve had a busy day on the bike or not, you wouldn’t turn any of it down. The same goes for café stops; honestly, you’d regret it if you didn’t stop and snack on the island’s tahini cake and drink at least one Cyprus coffee. They suggest turning it upside down afterwards to read your future in the remaining coffee grounds; but I’d recommend you don’t drink the dregs as you’ll have the pick the bigger grounds out your teeth.
Back on the bike, whether with or without company, into the mountains behind Tochni, the hills to the East and West, or the coast to the South, be prepared to be swept up in fresh, uplifting fragrances. If you’re more used to manure or pig farms, this is something you’ll want to distil and take home with you. A further tip would be to stay attentive to the terrain (and of course, how best to spot ripe Mespila fruits on trees) and to turn off all thoughts of average pace and power output.
To a point.
Because on Friday, it’s race day, the backbone of the Bedrock Gravelfest Cyprus.
As the festival is held during Orthodox Easter, it means that locals from across the island can also attend the race. This brings a nice vibe to the event with fresh faces and added excitement. As I arrived at the Feed Zone on race day morning, I was slightly worried that the easy rhythm of life that we’d fallen into had almost become too comfortable. Luckily, it wasn’t ultra-competitive—at least, not across the whole field. And the route choice—well, it had a bit of everything, including the ‘wow’ factor. Steep and relentless gravel, bits along the coast that blew you away (literally and metaphorically), post-race food that topped everything we’d had all week, true story.
After three punctures on my non-tubeless hire bike, my race was officially over but I’d like to do better next year.
At Larnaca airport on the Saturday night, I read a quote that said ’15 years ago, the internet was an escape from the real world. Now, the real world is an escape from the internet.’ – Noah Smith. So, without wanting to use clichés or quotes to write this article – forgive me for defining Tochni as ‘sleepy – it’d be hard to write a more apt analogy than that of Noah Smith. Bedrock Gravelfest Cyprus is a true getaway that immerses you in the slow pace of life in rural Cyprus, whilst allowing you to deep dive into this island’s amazing gravel and its culture.
Hats off, Mike. I haven’t felt this good in a long, long time.
If you’d like to take part in next year’s Bedrock Gravelfest, keep an eye on their website and the Gravel Union events calendar for details.